Properties of High Performance Steels

In my post on the components of a great knife, I talked about how steel was just one of the important decisions in making a knife. There are certain things to consider when trying to decide on what steel to use.

When choosing a steel type, there are 4 (sometimes 5) main properties to look at for knife making. They are strength, toughness, wear resistance, and edge holding, and, occasionally, stain resistance.

 

Strength: Sometimes also described as hardness (a different can of worms, see below), strength is the ability for the steel to take a load without permanently deforming. When cutting, stresses are applied to the blade edge, and strength is what keeps the blade from bending, thus completing the cut. Strength is certainly the property of knife steels that gets the most attention, and although important, also needs to be balanced by toughness.

(A note on hardness: Hardness is a tricky word, as it is determined as a single number, the Rockwell hardness, which measures the strength of the steel matrix, but does not take into account carbides. Carbides can make a less strong steel functionally “harder” due to increased wear resistance.)

 

Toughness: This is the ability for steel to take an impact without damage. And by damage I mean, chipping, cracking, or breaking. Usually the damage is, instead, in the form of deformation (such as bending or rolling an edge). Toughness is (generally) inversely proportional to strength in steel. A blade that is too strong will chip out or break, where a blade that is too tough will regularly just lose its edge. Toughness is important in heavy jobs such as chopping, and vital any time the blade hits a hard impurities in a material being cut.

For the most part, knife makers must decide on a good balance between strength and toughness. As in any part of blade design, this balance is completely dictated by the end use of the knife. A sushi knife, with it’s exacting nature, and particular set of constraints, would be best made much stronger than a meat cleaver, which would need to have high toughness. A chefs knife would aim for a nice middle ground.

 

Wear resistance: a steels ability to withstand abrasion. For the most part, wear resistance is determined by the amount, type, and distribution of carbides within the steel. Again, wear resistance is often confused with strength, lumped together as hardness. It is possible to have extremely hard carbides sitting in a weak steel matrix, in which case the carbides will become a point of failure, chipping out of the weak steel at a microscopic level.

Some of the most common carbide forming elements in knife making steel are chromium, molybdenum, tungsten, and vanadium. Each has different characteristics, both pros and cons, which I’ll talk about in another post. Carbides themselves are a double edged sword. On the one hand, they do provide increased wear resistance and give certain blades a sort of microscopic saw action, on the other hand, carbides consume free carbon in the steel matrix, and, depending on the amount present, can considerably lower the “active” carbon content in a steel, reducing hardenability. Some sorts of carbides form within the grain boundaries of the steel, increasing brittleness. Carbides like chromium carbide (Cr3C2) are considerably larger than individual atoms in the steel matrix, eliminating the ability to ever get a smooth razor edge.

 

Edge holding: like it sounds, is the ability of a blade to hold an edge. Commonly used interchangeably, wear resistance and edge holding are the same. Edge holding can be effected by wear resistance, but they are not the same.

Edge holding is a job-specific property. Edge holding is a function of wear resistance, strength, and toughness, as well as edge geometry. Each job requires different properties for edge holding. In a meat cleaver, toughness is extremely important, because of all the hard bits and pieces – micro-chipping is the main reason for edge degradation. For wood chisels or whittling knives, strength is most important as the primary reason for edge degradation is edge rolling and impaction. Wear resistance is important for edge holding when cutting very abrasive materials, like sheets of sandpaper. For commercial prep kitchens, corrosion resistance would be important, as all the acidic foods would quickly degrade the blade.

 

Stain resistance (or rust resistance / corrosion resistance): stain resistance is the ability to withstand rust (oxidation). This  can be helpful in corrosive environments, such as salt water (dive knives) or high moisture environments (swamps). Also, when the main function of the knife is regularly cutting acidic things (e.g.,various foods). Micro-oxidation can damage the blade and lead to edge loss in a very short amount of time. In “stainless” steels (stainless is actually a lie, these all will rust given the right circumstances and time – stain resistant is a much more realistic term) stain resistance affected most by free chromium (not chromium carbides). Some common stain resistant steels have upwards of 13% Cr content, (11% being the common baseline for a steel to be considered “stainless”).

 

Overall, it’s all about knowing your end use.

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Perfect Flats: Why you need to put together a disc grinder / disc sander

Oh hey, what’s this?

 

baldor box

baldor motor

 

Looks like a http://www.baldor.com/products/detail.asp?1=1&catalog=M3158T&product=AC+Motors&family=General+Purpose|vw_ACMotors_GeneralPurpose&winding=35WGR986&rating=40CMB-CONT . Found a guy who must have robbed a truck or something. Had like 50 of these, new in box, for cheap-as-free. Huge motors, 3 hp, 240v 3 phase. Unfortunately just had an OPSB (open, slotted band) enclosure, as opposed to TEFC (totally enclosed, fan cooled), but, for the price, I couldn’t really complain. Purchased multiple in case of metal dust failure.

 

So now, how to deal with the fact that my house only has 230v 1 phase?

 

KB VFD

 

Going to need a good VFD (Variable Frequency Drive). Like the KBAC-29: http://kb-drive.com/_product_15403/9528_-_KBAC-29_Gray_Inverter . Not only will it up-phase my 220, but also gives me speed control and forward / reverse.

 

Why are reverse and variable speed nice? Speed control helps, as my motor runs at 3450 rpm, which is pretty damn fast, so being able to dial it down is great. Was playing with the VFD, and it continues to run smoothly down below 20% speed, which allows for some great dead slow grinding. Reverse is necessary to be able to grind both sides of the bevel with the edge up, for maximum visibility and control.

 

So I put it all together to get:

 

disc grinder / disc sander

disc grinder / disc sander

 

Having a NEMA4 / washdown rated VFD gave me an excuse to use some liquid tight conduit, so at least that was fun, even though my motor is definitely not waterproof.

 

Mounted on the motor is a 9″ disc sander disc. Why 9 inches? Although knifemakers like to tell you that you need to “treat sandpaper like it’s free,” it is, in fact, not free. Sandpaper is expensive, and sanding discs are stupidly expensive. So, by using a 9 inch disc, you can just buy 9″x12″ sandpaper sheets and mount them on the disc with spray adhesive (cutting off the extra for later hand sanding.) As an added bonus, sheets come in all sorts of grit types (aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, garnet, emery, ceramic, etc.) and backings (paper, cloth, fiber, etc. – all at different weights), where premade discs are severely limited.

 

I’ve been having all sorts of fun – it’s pretty incredible to see how flat a disc sander / grinder can get a blade compared to a 2″ belt. Not saying anything bad about belt grinding – I still prefer working on a belt grinder for about 90% of my grinding, but having a disc sander is a really nice way to true up those flat grinds.

 

Bonus picture of helper cat looking mad due to lack of attention:

 

ruthie and disc sander

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The 4 Components of a Great Knife

Reading about high end knives, one would be led to believe that the main thing that makes a difference between a good knife (or a crappy knife) and a great knife is the type of steel used. Although the steel choice is important (after all, a knife is just a piece of steel), it is just one of 4 things that make a great knife. And not even a really major one, when it comes down to it. In addition to steel type, a great knife must also have a good edge geometry, proper knife (blade and handle) design, and a proper heat treatment. Each of these 4 things need be determined for each knife – a knife is planned from the end use back; what might make sense for a certain application would just not work for a different end use (i.e. a camp knife has a completely different set of criteria it must meet than a filet knife.)

 

So:

 

1)Knife Design: a knife is designed based on end use, and taking into account not just the blade, but also the handle. Knives are tools, first and foremost, and need to be designed to accomplish their set task(s). A big chopper is not just about the size, curve and shape of the blade, but also needs to take into account how a person will swing it:  the handle needs to be placed to complete a concave curve with the blade to take advantage of the swinging motion; it needs a proper palm swell and pinkie stop for grip, maybe a lanyard hole (for insurance), definitely a suitable guard (for assurance).  As a bad example of knife design, for a surprisingly easily overlooked reason, look at mid 20th century french kitchen knives. The kind with a bolster that runs all the way from the edge to the heel of the blade. This feature, sometimes called a “return” can create an interesting action when slicing food, as it sort of knocks the food away from the hand. Unfortunately, this full width bolster makes it so that, after just a few sharpenings, the blade is no longer capable of hitting flat against a cutting board: major design defect.

 

2) Edge Geometry:  this concerns both the edge and the area immediately behind it.  Things like grind types (chisel, convex, concave, flat) are just part of it. Also important are pre-edge thickness and angle of incident. Edge geometry is, like everything else, something that must be determined based on end use. A rugged camp knife might be better suited for a bigger pre-edge thickness and a convex grind, with a wide angle of incident, where a precision slicer would be just the opposite.

 

3) Steel:  Material choice is important, but, as far as I am concerned, entirely overrated and over-hyped. There are a constant list of flavor of the month super-steels, but they really just come back to the same set of elements mixed in different ways, and most of those mixes have been around for a long time. So long as the knife isn’t made of some some completely inappropriate steel (rebar, railroad spikes (ok, I might address found steel in a later post), 4140, mild steel, etc), a good knife maker will choose a steel that they best understand. And by understand, I mean:

 

4) Heat Treatment:  Possibly the hardest element of knife making for the non-maker to understand. It can’t be seen, and can’t be measured (Rockwell is just a single number, after all). Proper heat treatment is a long process, individual to the steel and the knife. It begins in the forging process, through attention to temperature ranges, and normalization cycles to refine grain structures, then into the classic “heat treat” of heating, quenching, and tempering. Mixed up in all of this are possibilities of rapid austenization, martempering/marquenching, differential heat treating, bluebacking, etc. A good knifemaker uses steels not for the steel itself, but because of their ability to heat treat it.

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American Bladesmith Society Journeyman Test (practice)

At the end of the bladesmithing class I took in Clyde, NC, we had to have produced a knife that would pass the American Bladesmith Society Journeyman Bladesmith test. The test is broken down into 4 parts:

1) Cut through a free hanging 1″ diameter hemp rope, no more than 6″ from the end, in one slice.
2) Hack through 2 2x4s.
3) Be able to shave with the blade (specifically the portion that was used to cut the 2x4s.)
4) With blade secured in a vise, bend the blade to 90 degrees without the blade snapping.

This test does not, necessarily, mean to say that all knives must be able to do these things, or that a knife is not good enough if it can’t. The test is more to show that the bladesmith can design, make, and heat treat a knife to serve a given set of purposes. All the tests could be passed individually fairly easily by building knives to a single purpose, but by having to pass all 4 with the same knife, it becomes a matter of balance and compromise. The rope cutting test, for instance, is largely about edge geometry, and blade design, but an optimized slicer might not have the heft to work for the chopping test. Building a pure chopper would also make shaving and (possibly) bending problematic. The bending test really necessitates a thorough knowledge of heat treating for a specific steel, as well as makes forging mistakes (such as introduction of micro fractures when forging too cold) into possible failure points.

My knife, although it struggled, ended up doing ok. Main problem was in cutting the rope – I left the edge a little too thick, and made the blade a little too small (as in width from edge to spine), but I guess that’s why it’s important to test. Bending it was pretty fun.

 

As usual, I look like an idiot.

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American Bladesmith Society Bladesmithing Class

In March I went down to Clyde, NC to take a bladesmithing class from the American Bladesmith Society (ABS). It was a 2 week class, 9am-5pm everyday, held at the Haywood Community College campus. The class was broken into two 1 week sections, taught by different mastersmiths:  the first by Greg Neely, the second by Jim Rodebaugh.

 

The class had six students, all of us at varying skill levels. It covered both theory and practice of designing knives, forging a blade to shape, grinding (both rough and finish), and heat treat and tempering.  Also included were lots of cursory discussions on more advanced topics like handles and guards, damascus, running a knifemaking business, etc.

 

It was a completely amazing, sort of life changing, experience. I learned so much in 2 weeks that I am still processing it months later. All sorts of awesome skills and information, from basic (Jim Rodebaugh corrected my hammer swing in less than 2 minutes – what had been a painful struggle, swinging a 3 lb. hammer quickly and accurately, is something I can now do at 30 beats per minute), to advanced (I finally understand how to build (at least in theory) a frame handle).

 

My camera broke before I went down, but I finally got some pics from one of the other guys, Larry Nieroda, who took the class with me:

forges

Here’s the forging area at Haywood. A bunch of coal forges, anvils, post vices.

anvil

I really like this anvil stand design. A bunch of 2x8s or 2x10s bolted together. Takes basically the same footprint as the anvil, as opposed to using a big stump or something, so it is way easier to move around. Also has some really great rebound, being end grain and all.

tongs

hammers

Big cart full of tongs, hammers, hardy tools, other helpful stuff.

pneumatic power hammer

tire hammer

Awesome power hammers. The top one is a big pneumatic power hammer, the bottom a tire hammer. Scary loud.

forging at haywood

Group shot of us forging, or talking or something.

Greg Neely and Jim Rodebaugh

These are the two guys who taught the class:  Greg Neely on the left and Jim Rodebaugh on the right.

Greg Neely forging

rodebaugh checking straightness

Some forging demos.

jay forging

jay forging

Me forging and making some real weird faces.

pinch tool

A tool Jim made for establishing a good pinch – sort of like a guillotine fuller, only with angles ground in to make nice bevels right at the pinch.

straightening a blade

straightening a blade

Straightening a blade (after heat treat) with a torch and 3 pins in a vice. Not really sure what the hell I’m looking at there.

Bill Wiggins shop

During the second week we went and toured another bladesmith, Bill Wiggins (on the far right), shop. Bill lives in the area, and as far as I can tell, does some sort of organizing for ABS events around there. Really nice guy.

Wiggins small forge

Here’s a really cool little forge Bill had in his shop. Super low gas usage, extremely portable, seemed to be really effective.

quenching a blade

So, due to some OSHA problems, Haywood wasn’t allowed to use any of their propane forges when we were there, so we went and heat treated at Bills. Here is a blade coming out of a 1500 F forge, about to go into some Parks 50 quench oil.

 

Ok, so that’s all I have for now. Will post more later.

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Trying this again

So it’s been the better part of a decade, and here I am starting another pointless blog. I am fairly embarrassed to be doing this again, but I feel like I need something to keep me accountable – that is to say, something that carries some sort of possibility of public shame, some record that I can look to to know that I didn’t just slack the last (next) 10 years away.

 

 

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